The Legend of the Hush Puppy
I
never liked eating hush puppies. However, my mother told me that
bakers owned dogs and they would bark at people. In order to keep
them from yapping, the bakers would cook up rolls of bread and throw
them to the “pups” to get them to shut up. In other words, to
hush the puppies. I also hate calling the food I eat puppies. I
like puppies and I certainly don't want to eat those cute puppies.
From
Serious Eats,((It
Was Back in 'de Wah: There's
a enduring impulse when writing about Southern food to connect
everything to the Civil War (boiled
peanuts, for instance).
In the case of hushpuppies, the story goes, Confederate soldiers
making dinner around a campfire heard Yankee soldiers approaching, so
they tossed their yapping dogs some fried cornmeal cakes and ordered
them to "hush, puppies!"
))
Most of these stories are “old wives” tales. From
Serious Eats, ((Southerners
have been eating tasty balls of fried cornmeal batter for quite some
time, though they didn't call them hushpuppies at first. At least two
decades before "hushpuppy" appeared in print, South
Carolinians were enjoying what they called "red horse bread."
It wasn't red in color, and it had nothing to do with horses. Red
horse was one of the common species of fish (along with bream,
catfish, and trout) that were caught in South Carolina rivers and
served at fish frys along the banks.
))
So
more or less, it just sort of fell into that name, but the practice
of making hush puppies predated the Civil War. It was certainly a southern thing, but it has been connected more to seafood dishes now.
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